I received a question from someone not too long ago on what it took to make a
litter of puppies a "SAR litter". From my personal standpoint on the issue (for
what it's worth), one isn't going to get a "SAR litter" any more than they are
going to get an entire litter full of "show potential, OTCH or CH-CT-OTCH-HCH"
pups.
Each pup/sub-adult dog has to be judged on it's own merit. I have found great
potentials out of non-working lines and from the Humane Society, I have washed
out pups from 100% working (non Belgian) lines.
For a person to want a SAR pup, that person has to be willing to travel the
distance to test the pups in a litter and put them through the paces so to
speak. This might mean testing several litters that are on the ground at the
same time. It might mean waiting for the next litter to come along. I can't see
purchasing a "SAR puppy" sight unseen. What I want in my pup and what the
breeder see's at 49 days might not be the same thing. What the pup excels at in
a temperament test at 7 weeks might be the straw that breaks the camels back at
3 years and ends two years of intensive training. If wishes were gold, I would
prefer not to even select a SAR pup until it was close to 18 months of age, but
then you lack the bonding and the foundation of early puppyhood training so
valuable to SAR dogs. At 18 months of age, a dog has developed it's drives that
might not be apparent at 8, 10 or 12 weeks. A puppy passed over for hopeless
might be the diamond in the rough. A pup that tests at the top of the pile
might be a brick wall. It's a game of Russian Roulette for sure.
So, after selecting three of my own pups that I have trained and worked (and
who have all been successful thus far) and potential pups for others who are
all doing well in the SAR field, this is what I like to see...
1) First off, take a non-attached, objective person with you when selecting
your pup/young dog. All pups are adorable and you quickly become puppy-blind
and see things that you WANT to see that might not necessarily be there. After
testing the litter, leave for awhile. Write down notes as far as what you
liked, didn't like and general feelings about the pup(s) in question. Take a
walk and talk to your puppy-picking partner for their opinions and what they
saw. Compare pro's and con's. Don't make a decision immediately. This is your
working partner for 6-9 years. You have to feel 100% sure of the match. Don't
let the breeder sway you into a decision that you don't feel comfortable with.
Every breeder would love to boast that they produced a SAR dog...however if you
don't feel comfortable with the match, comfortable with the breeder or the
situation, it was not meant to be.
2) Before arriving at the breeders/rescue organization/Humane Society, decide
if you want a dog or a bitch. Figure out what you want to do with said dog in
addition to SAR work...conformation? Then you have to consider the problems an
intact bitch will provide when in season (most groups will not allow you to
field your bitch if she is in season). Spayed bitches are wonderful workers. I
like to do everything including conformation with my dogs, so for me a male was
a necessity.
3) Do your puppy tests. I absolutely fell in love with Jona Deckers
P.A.W.S. test
(in addition to the
Volhord Puppy Test
). If testing an older puppy/young adult (18-24 months), Jona's test is
invaluable for reference. As far as what I like to see in my puppy's at this
point is; dominance that will submit after a brief struggle, no noise
sensitivity, and high pain tolerance with quick forgiveness. I stay away from
the bully of the litter as much as I steer clear of the introvert. I want some
retrieve (I have found in both my Belgians that the retrieve drive didn't kick
in until around 10 months of age, then they became ball driven maniacs). As
long as my Belgian puppy shows interest in, and is curious about the thrown
object, he will pass that part of the test. Of course I would expect to see
more in the retrieving breeds (Golden Retrievers, Labradors, etc.) since they
have the genetic pre-disposition for retrieving. A Golden puppy who is not
interested in retrieving at 7 weeks will probably not be interested in
retrieving at 2 years. So in puppy selecting, one has to take different breed
types into consideration.
In and older pup (18-24 months), I want to see how they react to strange dogs.
A dog/bitch (intact or altered) who has hackles up and is challenging other
dogs most likely will always maintain this attitude. A dog who goes immediately
into a submissive posture is too unsure for me. A dog that refuses to focus on
me due to the fact that they only want to play with the other dogs is easily
distracted from what I want him to do. I look for a friendly, if not
indifferent attitude in reaction to other dogs in the area. These dogs need to
be able to load with other, unknown dogs into the back of a pick-up without
aggression. They need to be able to concentrate on working while another dog is
working next to, or in the near vicinty to them.
I stress them a little in taking them away from familiar territory to see how
clingy they are. I want ball/tug drive at this age with problem solving
abilities (hide ball while they look and let them get it, hide again while they
have eyes hidden in same area and see what memory retention is). I put them on
a long line and see what kind of willingness they have to come with me (no
place for a dog who turns tail and runs the other way in apparent glee...they
are off lead 90% of the time). I check for excessive prey drive using a short
lead and someone else's cat/smaller dog...also stay away from a dog that can't
be "phooey'd" off a chase...a dog who is busy chasing deer isn't searching for
someone's lost child. Sure, a prey driven dog can be trained with the use of an
electric collar to ignore deer/rabbits/squirrels while working, but why waste
invaluable time training it to leave wildlife when the time could be used to
teach a new concept or polish an old one.
I also check for this dog's attitude toward friendly strangers, both adults and
children...SAR dogs are in the public eye a good percentage of the time. When
not searching or training, they are out doing education and public relations.
On searches, a total stranger might be asked to retrieve the dog from it's
truck or to move a dog from one location to another if tied out. A dog who is
not accepting of friendly strangers, children or people in general has no place
in SAR and is a potential liability to his SAR group.
4) Ok, now you have a couple of puppies or young dogs that strike your fancy.
Take puppy to an outside area that is deemed "safe" by the
breeder/foster/Humane Society that isn't someplace they are familiar with. I
prefer something with a lot of natural obstacles...logs, trees, pinecones,
rocks, etc. Put pup down and gauge it's reaction to this new environment.
Curiosity is a definite plus. Willingness to cross the log, walk along the log
with assistance and without fear is a plus. Willingness to try unstable
obstacles is a plus. Call puppy to you from 20+ feet. Pup who chooses to ignore
you in this new environment away from littermates is too independent. Pup who
is clingy and won't leave your feet in new environment is too unsure (of course
all this can change with age and maturity in the 7 week old pup. With a pup
over 6 months, what you see is pretty much what you get). Walk with pup through
the area...most pups are goofy-silly at this age, but look for the one that
"stops to smell the roses". He is curious about new scents and is taking the
time to investigate.
5) Have in your vehicle a selection of different "terrains" for puppy/young dog
to walk across...chainlink, plastic tarp, linoleum, carpet, fake grass...set
these up on the ground in the unfamiliar area and see if pup is willing to
cross with minimal encouragement (treat induced is fine)...see how he reacts to
gravel and standing water (water on your tarp works). Will he investigate the
water? Put his feet in it? You have a potential water search dog or wilderness
dog that isn't afraid to try something new.
6) Also have a basket of "scents" that the pup might not be familiar
with...dirty socks, citrus peel, vanilla, scented candles, etc. Is he willing
to investigate the new things in his realm? If he wanders over without any
encouragement all the better. If you need to encourage him to the new scents,
gauge his reaction. Is he curious once he "discovers" them? Does he try to play
with the new items? Is he indifferent? You want a pup/young dog that is curious
about everything. You want a dog that isn't afraid of investigating that "new
and unusual" scent that might be your victim who is now non-viable.
7) Back in familiar setting for puppy, take his favorite toy or a chew treat
(something he is fixated on and wants). Hide the toy in a spot that makes him
have to work to obtain it (under a blanket or under the couch). Let him watch
you put the object in it's place. Does he keep working to get to it by digging
or barking and showing persistence? Does he give up easily to go and do
something else? With an older pup, take his favorite toy and throw it into the
bushes where he can't readily see it. Does he keep looking for it? Is he
problem solving and trying to use his nose to locate it (moving down wind of
the object)? Does he give up before finding it and come back to you or do
something else? Avalanche and disaster dogs have to be downright stubborn at
times to communicate with their handlers that they have located scent.
Wilderness dogs need persistence to keep working on a scent that may change
direction or disappear at times. All SAR dogs need to be just a little bit
stubborn to keep working in the most adverse situations and weather conditions.
A dog who discourages easily will readily leave the scent pool/victim or give
up when the "going gets tough".
8) How is this pups conformation? Even if not a "show" dog, it has to be put
together conformationally correct to be a working dog. SAR dogs work up to 4
hours at a time, jump innumerable objects during the course of a search and run
miles. A pup that's not put together correctly will break down at an early age
and be useless as a SAR partner. If getting a pup from a breeder, make sure you
know pedigrees and health clearances. Is the pups line free of hip dysplasia?
PRA? Seizures? Are there any know heart defects? Thyroid problems? Von
Willebrands? Have elbows in the sire and dam been x-rayed? Any known spinal
degeneration problems? One of the biggest heart breaks is getting a puppy
trained, certified and operational and finding out he has hip dysplasia or
having him drop over dead from a congenital heart defect. Some injuries are not
directly related to genetics (cruciate ligament tears for example), but correct
conformation and conditioning help prevent a lot of time lost and financial
setbacks due to injury in your SAR dog.
In a rescue or foster situation you of course won't be able to do your research
on health background. For a potential nominee, will the agency or rescue
organization help with the expenses of getting the appropriate tests done? Is
the pup heartworm free? Will they pay for a healthy puppy check-up? If the vet
is good, he will be able to detect heart murmurs in a general check-up. If you
are already a member of a SAR agency, sometimes you can find a business or
individual to help sponsor a SAR nominee. Use these funds to get your puppy
cleared for any life threatening/work altering health problems. A healthy dog
will be able to work a lot longer than a puppy with the cards already stacked
against him.
9) Last but not least, how do you feel about the pup/dog. I mean REALLY feel
about the dog. From your heart and your guts. You and this bundle of fuzz will
be training for over 2 years in every type of climate, weather and situation
imaginable. He will not only be your partner, but your best friend and at times
sole companion while spending a lonely night up on a wind swept hill top. Sit
on the floor with your SAR pup candidate and watch his reaction with you. A pup
who has passed all your tests, who climbs in your lap and looks you in the eye
is a pup who will give you his heart to his last breath. This little bundle of
fluff and you will someday be out searching for someone's loved one. You want a
pup with heart who will be willing to give his life for you. Sometimes this
test is the most important of all.
Do some sole searching...if this pup for some reason doesn't work out as a SAR
dog, what is your plan for him? Will he be a loved and cherished pet? Do you
plan on returning him to the breeder? Will you place him in a pet home? It is
only fair that you explain what your plans and intentions are to the breeder of
this little canine. Afterall, they have spent countless hours planning for and
raising this little fluff-ball. They want to see it in the best situation
possible. If you have acquired a dog from rescue/Humane Society the same
applies. Are you willing to take on the responsibility of giving this dog a
permanent home if he doesn't work out? Are you willing to spend the time
necessary and screen potential applicants if you decide to place him in another
home? If your answer is to take him back to the shelter, then perhaps SAR isn't
for you.
I have been asked what the optimal age span is for selecting or starting a SAR
dog. When testing young pupies, I like to try and see the litter between 7-8
weeks of age. With older dogs, between 12-18 months. After selecting a young
pup, my advice to Belgian owners is to put them on the back burner until they
are at least a year and let them grow up and go through their developmental
stages. Socialize as normal, do play problems, but don't expect much until they
are between 12-16 months. Then the training gets serious.
Pups between 16-18 months have developed what drives are genetically present
and you get a clear, unobstructed view of what you will get. They still want to
play, but are now ready to learn. More mature and able to handle being stressed
a little by the training they will recieve. I tend to shy away from accepting
dogs into training after they are 26 months old...of course this is breed
dependent. Belgians, if in shape and due to longevity of life are capable or
working well into their senior years (8-10), but most other breeds (German
Shepherds, Goldens, etc.) are looking at retirement between the ages of 6-8. It
takes a good two years once the puppy is ready to learn, to effectively train a
SAR dog. Barring injury or helth related problems this means that a 2 year old
dog, once trained has at least a 4 year working life. When starting with an
older dog, once they are trained, you are looking at retirement. Due to the
time and costs involved with training yourself and your dog, it is hardly worth
it. However, I would not discoursage a new member from training if they had
their hearts set on it and their dog showed promise. We all had to start
somewhere, and by training an older dog, you are all that much more experienced
when you go to select your next dog.
Training your new SAR nominee is a labor of love. A lot of time, energy and
money goes into training a successful dog. You will be travelling a lot and
taking time off from family and work to train yourself and your dog. Family
vacations will be interrupted as will holidays and celebrations. Loved ones may
only see evidence that you still live in the same house by the piles of dirty
clothing you leave as you run out the door for another mission. SAR calls come
at all hours of the day or night, every day of the year in every weather
condition imaginable. Are you willing to give up your personal/family time to
search for someone you don't know? Someone you will never see again? Someone
who might all ready be dead?
Most of the time a successful mission is only celebrated by the volunteers on
the scene. It's not a job for glory-seekers. Joe-blow public may never know
what happened at 3am in the blizzard...your employers usually don't care as
long as you are at work by 7am...all on less than an hour sleep. There is no
financial reward for belonging to SAR...it's all volunteer. You pay your own
gas, food and for your own training.
Are you within driving distance of a reputable K9 SAR group or trainer? In
order to get utilized after training, you will need to be a member of a
reputable organization. Not many private people have the knowledge to train a
SAR dog and once they do won't ever be called out unless they are able to prove
their and their dog's abilities to their local law enforcement agencies.
If able to find a group where the training director is familiar with Belgians,
consider yourself one of the lucky ones...some Belgians need special
considerations in their early, formative months that one doesn't see in other
breeds. People familiar with them realize this and tailor training to
accommodate for their developmental milestones without pushing them. The extra
work involved in the early training by not training is worth it when the end
product is a very self-assured, confident and unstoppable SAR certified Belgian.